Silver and Sapphire bracelet.

A customer came to me and wanted an anniversary gift for his wife. He knew he wanted a bracelet, maybe a sapphire tennis. After some discussion about the customer’s wife and budget I suggested doing a cuff rather than a tennis bracelet. Here is what we did.

A CAD model was made to get the basic idea of the shape and size of the piece as well as figure out how many stones would be needed.

I sent pictures of a baby spoon I did because it has the same feel that wanted the bracelet to have.

I knew the sapphires would look great with the textured and darkened silver.

I looked at many sapphires to find the right ones for this project.

These are pretty cool. Bullet shaped cabochon.

Eventually just the right stones were chose.

The large settings for the stones were cut out of thick sheets of silver. The shapes are all different and have a very hand done feel.

Because they are going to be attached to a curved surface the pieces are formed before they are cut out.

There we go. These are all the the settings for the sapphires.

Just making sure they are gonna fit. The settings are all smoothed out now and ready to be soldered onto the bracelet.

Now it’s time to make the bracelet. After a strip was cut the texture is chased onto the top side.

The pattern is cross hatched.

Yeah, it’s a lot of hammering.

Nothin to it but to do it.

After the pattern is done the silver is darkened to see if it needs more chasing.

Looks pretty good.

The setting are place on the strip to make sure everything is the right size. It’s important to double check through out the process. Measure twice, cut once as the old saying goes.

The strip of silver is formed in a circle.

Starting to look like a bracelet.

Now the wire is made for the border. This process take a will because the wire is “drawn” down from thicker wire to just the right thickness.

Now little by little the wire is soldered to the piece to form the border.

Thise blue coloring is caused by the flux as the piece is heated and cooled.

Wrap it on around.

Soldering a large piece like this requires a lot heat control in order to get the solder to flow in just the right way. Skillz baby.

I may look all chunky now but all that extra will be removed later.

Now that the border is on, it’s time to get the setting on there.

Before they are soldered they are laid out once again just to make sure the fit is just right.

Now they are on there for good.

As the silver is heated and put in acid to clean it it gets a white skin. It’s actually very beautiful.

Now that the settings are soldered on, holes are drilled and seats for the stones cut.

Looks like the fit.

Jason’s hairy arm is prob not the best model for this piece.

Work it bracelet.

You’re a diva!

Strut around that shop!

Now for the last part of the setting. This is 18k yellow gold wire.

Little rings are formed to hold the sapphires in place.

Solder em on in there.

Buttah.

Before the stones are set the bracelet is darkened. This will allow for the seats, the places where the stones are set, to be cleaned up and bright so that the sapphires will look their best.

Unfortunately there are no pics of the setting process. But those bad boys are in there for good.

Here is the bracelet in the photography light box.

That’s how it’s done.

Tags: 18k, art work, bracelet, fabrication, metalsmithing, stone setting

This entry was posted on Friday, May 7th, 2010 at 2:50 pm and is filed under silver. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

6 Responses to “Silver and Sapphire bracelet.”

Lynda says:

May 14, 2010 at 3:39 pm

This is the perfect bracelet for me!!!!!! If you need the perfect piece of jewelry for yourself or that special someone, give Jason a shout. I love wearing this bracelet. You gotta have a Pepper Box design!!!!
Amy@AQ-V says:

January 20, 2011 at 6:19 pm

What a stunning piece, Jason. Really enjoying going through all your photo essays on your processes from sketch to finish… kaboom!
Jason says:

February 7, 2011 at 12:31 pm

Hey Amy, Thanks for taking some time to check out the work, I appreciate the compliments, Kaboom! indeed. I’m about to head over and check out the latest from Aqua Velvet.
StarIdle says:

February 14, 2011 at 6:08 am

just phenomenal!!
not only are you EXCEPTIONALLY talented, you are immensely GENEROUS to take the time to share your process and experience with others.
i am totally humbled in the presence of a mastercraftsman – thank you!
Jason says:

February 14, 2011 at 6:06 pm

Thanks Star for taking some time to check out my work. Master craftsman might be a bit much, hehe, but I certainly appreciate the compliment.
Ozzy says:

March 26, 2011 at 4:26 pm

Can I please, please be your apprentice?? Lol. I wish so much. Thanks for sharing your ‘skilz’ baby, it makes a lonely wannabe jeweler feel connected